Mount Everest: Went to Camp 2 today, energy level is high

Tags: Everest Climbing
Two of us, a Belgian guy and me, went to Camp 2 today at 6,400 meters altitude. A fantastic climb and our energy levels are high.

We were told by our expedition leaders to go to lower altitudes tomorrow to get more oxygen. Even if we feel great and energy level is high, we of course do as they say.


Mount Everest: Arrived at Camp 1 today

Tags: Everest Climbing
Two of us arrived to Camp 1 today after a rough climb. We are fine and I hope to see more from my group of 15 arrive here tomorrow.

I will try to keep updating my
Use The World Facebook page with news.


Mount Everest: Arrived at basecamp now, weather is getting better

Tags: Everest Climbing
I have now arrived to basecamp and everything looks good. Route to Camp 1 was opened yesterday after some delay because of the weather, our sherpas was at Camp 1 for the first time today.

If everything goes as planned, I will get to Camp 1 in 2 days. Weather is getting better also.

I will be updating my
Use The World Facebook page with news.


Climbing mountains Dubai style :-)

Tags: Dubai Jabal Bil Ays Climbing SUV
This morning at 02:00 AM I arrived at my hotel in Dubai and went straight from hotel towards Jabal Bil Ays in a Cadillac Escalade with a driver of course

Jabal Bil Ays is the highest mountain in UAE and if you can find the way on the roads at night you should be able to drive up to apx. 1500 meters and just trek and stumble to the summit.

However, my driver knew how to put the pedal down, but his onboard GPS did not have show the roads and Google maps showed a route crossing the Oman border

And then all the weirdness started, I think it was 04:30 AM when we got to a border/military control that would only allow local people/farmers access, and my driver decided to take another route into Oman.

So around sunrise we went through the border with Oman, through immigration passport control, paid to exit UAE and paid for 10 day visa entry to Oman, and after getting even further from the mountain we returned to the same border crossing, more immigration, but this time no payments and went back to Dubai .... 8 hours later we ended up at Jumeirah beach where we started .... I have been in and out of contries and driving to mountains etc. but no summits in the bag


Trekking Mount Hallasan in South Korea

Tags: Climbing Trekking South Korea Hallasan Jeju
I trekked to the top of Mount Hallesan on Jeju Island in South Korea today

From all the treks I have ever done, this trail is remarkable well kept, and I dare anyone to get lost. The trail is clearly marked every apx. 500 meters and it really does not make much difference, because it just goes up, it should be impossible to get lost. I trekked up using the Seongpanak trail and down the Gwaneumsa trail.

The Seongpanak trail is a little longer, but less steep, and I started my trek at 05:50 and reached the top at 8:45 including. a 10 min break for a change of clothes and some food.

It was very bad weather, and raining almost the whole day, and really bad at the top with high wind gusts, but even in rain the trail is good, mostly made up of planks and small rocks and not muddy anywhere on the trail.

Mount Hallasan is a 1950 meters high vulcano that is not active and it occupy most of the island of Jeju and is the highest mountain in South Korea.


Trekking Mount Lamlam in Guam

Tags: Guam Mount Lamlam climbing trekking Mount Jumullong Manglo
I trekked the highest mountain in Guam, and according to how you measure a mountain this could be considered the highest in the world, because the foot of the mountain starts deep in the Mariana Trench, but only 406 of the 11330 meters is above sealevel. But it is a good trek no matter how you want to measure it and next to Lamlam is Mount Jumullong Manglo where for many years the local people have celebrated easter and carried crosses to the top.

Guam is also the most western part of the USA, and there is both a big navy and airforce base in Guam.


Climbing Everest has been cancelled this year from Nepal side :-(

Tags: Climbing
Climbing Everest has been cancelled for all expeditions this year from Nepal side, and I had to return after spending 10 days in basecamp

The angry mob of sherpas that threatened the life of climbers, ice fall doctors and sherpas succeed

Today we had a meeting with the minister and other officials here in base camp, but it did not satisfy the angry mob and they listed new demands to allow people to climb Everest, including the following:


I climbed Jade Mountain (Yushan) at 3952 meters

Tags: Jade Mountain Yushan Taiwan Climbing
I climbed Jade Mountain in Taiwan the 10. June 2013 and reached the summit at 12:15 .... see more pictures in the photo album.

There are a lot of mountains in Taiwan to climb, both in summer and winter. Jade mountain is the highest, but there are so many peaks around Jade Mountain in the Yushan Range and the trails are so pristine, and I cound them to be in very good condition, despite I met almost no people.

To prepare for the trek you have to get a permit, and they limit the amount of trekkers, so it is a good idea to get the permit before you leave home.

The trail is quite long, and doing it in one day will lead to sore feet, but most people who climb Jade Mountain start very early with a headlamp and then reach the top around noon.

The views are fantastic during the entire trek, with unspoiled nature and peaks all around the trek, the trail is easy to follow, if you pay attention to the signs.


1. Attempt on Everest - 2012 - April/May

Tags: Everest Climbing
In April/May 2012 I had my first attempt on Everest, and in short I turned back due to prior illness on the way up and the extreme danger this year.

We had so many accidents and fatalities this season on Everest, due mostly to warm weather making climbing a lot more dangerous with constant rock fall on the trail and many avalanches. So when Russell Bride cancelled his entire expedition I followed and went back.

However I will return in 2013 for my next attempt, and since I have already had good experience on Khumbu Icefall I feel encouraged and positive as I now have even more experience


Climbing Aconcagua in Argentina

Tags: Climbing Aconcagua Argentina
I summited Aconcagua in Argentina the 15. February 2011 at 14:00

Climbing mountains back-to-back has both advantages and problems. Most important I was somewhat acclimatized, but the my body hadnot had the time to recover fully.

And mentally I had already been away for a while and keeping motivation high became a challenge ...

Aconcagua is a high and quite deadly mountain because of all the novice climbers are attracted to the mountain because of the ease of access and because it is not so technical. And the weather can be really bad on Aconcagua, and it is a very windy, dusty and dry mountain.


Climbing Vinson in Antarctica

Tags: Climbing Vinson Antarctica Vern Tejas
I summited Vinson in Antarctica the 28. January 2011 at 18:40 after a crazy month of:

* Strikes in southern Chile - look at my ireport here  ... http://ireport.cnn.com/docs/DOC-540883

* Problems with the plane (an old Russian plane that fly between Punta Arenas and the glacier in Antarctica)

* Weather delays

All this resulted in a very late climb and pushed everybodys schedule and patience to the limit.

We were one of the latest climbs ever on Vinson, and late season climbs affects not only climbers schedules, but the weather starts changing.

However all this just made the experience much more memorable, it was tough because we wanted to get up and down quickly but still safely, and we had one of the best guides in the World, Vern Tejas. Vern have climbed all 7 summits several times and holds many records including the record for summits on Vinson ... so we knew we were in good hands.

A few days after I arrived in Punta Arenas a strike broke out and prevented us from leaving the city with multiple road blocks and as the strike progressed even the supermarkets were shut down.

We did make an attempt to bypass the barricades and succeded in reaching the airport .... walking 20 km. with boots, parkas etc. ... some got blisters from this walk, and when we sat in the lounge at the airport, we were told to walk back to the city because of a fuel regulater fault .... not cool ...

This made a lot of people drop out and return home, but in our team Dave and I tried to keep everybody happy and in the end we all stayed.

After waiting 6 days for a new fuel regulator we faced the normal delays due to weather problems. The warmest day on the mountain was -28 and the coldest was -40

We had a perfect storm coming up to high camp, but we also had a fantastic summit day, with beautiful weather and almost no wind ....


Climbing Mount Trikora on Papua

Tags: Climbing Mount Trikora Papua Indonesia
I arrived in Jakarta in Indonesia to climb Mount Trikora in Papua - the 2. highest mountain on the Australian continent - together with Andries, one of my climbing friends.

There were volcanic eruptions from Merapi on Java during our stay in Indonesia. I arrived Friday and both Saturday and Sunday all international flights to and from Jakarta had been cancelled, so we were quite lucky to get in just the day before.

We got to the summit - the real summit

our guides had never been up there and they did not know of anyone who made it ! Most people get to just 50-75 meters below the summit.

It was a real rock climb and at times quite dangerous and difficult. At some places the ridge was paperthin, and it was the most dangerous rock climb we had ever tried. And I had to overcome my fear to get all the way up.

After I got back over the most dangerous part of the ridge, I had one thought ... marriage suddenly did not seem so scary anymore compared to this ridge


Climbing Elbrus from the North side .... BOTH the East and West summit :-)

Tags: Climbing Elbrus Russia
Today I climbed BOTH summits of Elbrus from the north side, starting at camp 2 at 3740 meters at 01:01 in the morning :) First 1900 meters up to the East summit, and then down apx 400 meters and up again to the West summit From the West summit we traversed back down to the North side and then down to camp 2. We had a lot of deep new snow and had to break a new trail. It was a really long summit day, 16 hours and 48 minutes with crampons is very hard. Rewarding, but hard. We had good weather with us, but due to heavy snowfall the day before we had to break new trail going up. I started with my guide, but we were soon a group of different tours, 9 people in total. The North side is climbed mostly by Russian climbers, and I was the only non-Russian in the group.


Climbing Kosciuszko in Australia

Tags: Climbing Kosciuszko Australia
Today I made it to the top of Kosciuszko here in Australia I don't know anyone who climbed it during the winter and it looks nothing like the pictures "the crazy Scotsman" showed me last week. No girls in bikini here now But a lot of snow and ice ...... And again I had to walk in a white-out situation, and only because of my GPS did i find the summit. The mess path to fallow in the summer was 90% covered in snow and ice, but at some place you could see the mess though the snow and it helped finding the way to the pass, and from there to the summit. The cairn at the top looked bizare, half covered in ice, and one side was completely covered by 40 cm ice from top to buttom. I started alone, but met a group from Slovakia that had no GPS and couldn't find the summit, but they followed me to the top. Windy and cold is what I remember from todays climb and we couldn't see anything from the summit.


Climbing Ayers Rock and walking all the way back to the resort

Tags: Climbing Ayers Rock Australia
Today was a good day Ayers Rock have been closed for some days due strong wind at the top, but today at noon they opened for climbing and i hopped on the bus to take advantage of the moment. It was steeper than i thought, but still an easy climb, and until you are there it is difficult to understand the size and colors of Ayers Rock. It is vibrant red, almost a rysty color, so when the sun is shining on the rock it looks amazing. I loved it  After descending i walked the extra 25 km back to the resort ......That was harder than i thought, and i wasn't back until just after the sunset.


Climbing Mount Fuji in Japan

Tags: Climbing Japan Fuji
We have just come down from Mount Fuji. The mountain had a few suprises for us ! The trail was invisible, everything was covered in snow and ice and the visibility was so limited that sometimes we just walked straight up hoping to find some marks/sticks/rope indicating that we were on the right path. We did the climb alone with no guides, but took extra time and few chances. We had to break trail through deep snow for most of the way up, and the crampons and ice axein came in handy. Got to top of crater and back down in a single day despite its high altitude. Most people would take at least 2 days to climb mount fuji. At 3100 meters the white out was so bad we made the desision to turn around, but after 45 min. we got enough visibility to continue and we finally reached the top at 15.30 It  looked like nobody had been up there for a long time, as everthing was covered in snow and ice, and sometimes we were walking on rooftops of the small huts and houses. We cleared the ice off many signs and ropes, it was a tough but epic climb.


Climbing Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

Tags: Kilimanjaro Climbing Tanzania
I have traversed/trekked/climbed Kilimanjaro in Tanzania following the Lemosho route and summited on the 21-03-2010 at 06:30 in the morning - just in time for the sunrise

This route is not more technical than the famous Coca-Cola route that most people do, but it is the longest route, virtually taking you from one side of Kilimanjaro to the other.

I really enjoyed this trip to Tanzania, and I will strongly recommed this route to other climbers, to enjoy it even more then add one extra day to the climb.

I had heard so much about the snow melting away, so I was pleasently surpriced about the amount of snow up there, and we had fresh snow the night we went for the summit.

The ascend started saturday morning when we left camp 4 at 4000 meters at 09.45 and trekked to camp 5 at 4600 meters, ate and slept Saturday evening we get ready at 23.00, and exactly 24.00 we push for the summit. and we reach the summit at 5900 meters at 06.30 So we climbed the last 1900 meters in less than 21 hours.

Please go to Tanzania, climb Kilimanjaro and set aside an extra week to go for Safari in the Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti .......... I enjoyed that very much too


Climbing Mustagh Ata (7546 meters) in China

QuickImage Tags: Climbing
I climbed Mustagh Ata in the Xinjiang province in western China (bordering Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan). This area is mostly inhabited by muslim communities, and getting to Khasgar is a journey in itself and the easiest, but certainly not the shortest, route is to stop-over in Beijing.

The actual climb was scheduled from the 1. July to the 24. July, however due to weather and other unforseen problems I planned for extra days. I chose an american travel agent SummitClimb that has much experience with this mountain.

Mustagh Ata is 7546 meters high, but not very technical, and mostly climbed on snowshoes. Some climb it on ski, but after my last ski trip to the North Pole I prefered to try snowshoes

I relaxed a week in northern Thailand and did a bit of trekking in the Golden Triangle before travelling to Khasgar - you can see some pictures of this here.

I had to fly from Chiang Rai - Bangkok - Beijing - Urumqi - Khasgar. In Urumqi I had more than 8 hours to wait and I left the airport to go sightseeing, some stewardesses on the flight to Urumqi gave me some tips on where to go and with a few Chinese sentences on the back of a piece of paper I went out of the airport. I told the taxi driver "Hong Shan Gong Yuan"  .......... and after half an hour I was at a park. I spent a few hours there and I must have look silly carrying a huge backpack and a sleeping bag around this park  Even Chinese security officers looked stunned when I walked through check-in wearing these boots. The things you do, to make your carry-on look smaller and keep the weight of the checked-in luggage down

Oh, and if you want to attract Chinese girls just wear a pair of Millet Everest boots, sit down at the cafe in Urumqi airport and take them off. One of the girls working there came over to me every 5 min. saying "they are too big"

After arriving in Khasgar we had a few days of planning, sightseeing and preparation for the climb, including the guide, but not including the sherpas etc. we were 19 people on this climb

On the 3. July we arrived at Karakul Lake, there is a stunning view of Mustagh Ata from Karakul Lake

We do not have access to Oxygen when we climb this mountain, but we do have a Gamow Bag with us if needed. You can read about Gamow Bags here